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Revival
styles in jewelry. |
One of the most prolific proponents of revival styles during
the nineteenth century was the jewelry firm founded by Fortunato
Pio Castellani in Rome in 1814. During the firm's first few
decades it made its reputation by producing jewelry that was
in the style of that being made in France and England. However,
in the 1830s Castellani was introduced to antique jewelry by
the learned aristocrat Michelangelo Caetani, a scholar, historian,
amateur wood turner; and sculptor. Caetani was proficient at
drawing, and some of his extant sketches are designs for metalwork,
particularly jewelry. For much of the nineteenth century the
Castellani dynasty--Fortunato, his sons Alessandro and Augusto,
and his grandson Alfredo--operated one of the leading jewelry
firms in Europe.
An exhibition
that chronicles the rise and leadership role of the firm is
on view at the Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative
Arts, Design, and Culture in New York City through February
6, 2005. The show is entitled The Castellani and Italian Archaeological
Jewelry and includes 282 pieces of jewelry, design drawings,
ancient artifacts, and archival materials, all of which demonstrate
the wide range of revival styles the firm and its European
patrons embraced over the course of nearly one hundred years.
In 1832 the records of the shop,
which was located on the Via del Corso in Rome, note a payment
for a necklace "made in the Etruscan style with onyxes"
along with other similar pieces. This was one of Fortunato's
earliest attempts at reviving a style thousands of years old.
Granulation was an Etruscan technique that fascinated the
firm beginning in the 1830s.
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can read more.
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